Laliguras

Rahul Majumdar

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They were having a very pleasant weather in Siliguri. When they boarded the bus bound for Manevanjan Samiran asked, “Have all of you brought enough winter garments with you? Because the temperature is hovering around 0 degree centigrade in Sandakphu.” Hearing this Arnab absentmindedly closed the top button of his shirt but was soon snubbed by Sayani who said, “But Arnab we are not at Sandakphu now, we are in Siliguri. Here the temperature is moving around 25 to 30 degree centigrade. Arnab smiled apologetically and unbuttoned the top one. 

Arnab and Sayani were going to Sandakphu in a tour conducted by a company who specializes in this field. Sandakphu is the highest point of the state of West Bengal. The way to Sandakphu is so steep that ordinary vehicles cannot go there; one has to rely on a special type of vehicle particularly designed for this purpose called Landrover. This bus which is owned by the tour operators would take them up to Manebhanjan. From there they would take land rovers for Sandakphu. 

When the bus reached Manebhanjan it was afternoon.

Sayan, Arnab and three others of the party boarded a Landover. The vehicle had a peculiar sounding horn and a very funny name ‘Mad Dog.’

They started their journey from Manebhanjan.  After some time Arnab attracted Sayani’s attention towards a mountain top that was devoid of any vegetation. Here in this road from Manbhanjan one could see some barren mountain tops that were not very common in eastern Himalayas. The rays of the setting sun were falling on the top of the mountain and made the sky crimson. It was a very beautiful sight to look at and the sight became more attractive due to the rugged beauty of the top.  The road was very narrow and at some places it was impossible for two vehicles to cross each other. One of them had to go backward to a spot which was wide enough to let the two vehicles cross each other safely. At times the vehicles went so close to the precipice that the passengers felt like screaming but finally they managed to stifle it.  

The sunrays were beginning to grow weaker and weaker in the approaching darkness. Suddenly Sayani was startled when a barren top of a very lofty peak appeared in front of her in the semi darkness of the evening. She was filled with awe, and the sight seemed to be almost eerie to her. From then on a peculiar fear crept into her soul, she sat there still. Arnab felt that something was wrong with her. He asked whether anything was troubling her but Sayani preferred to remain silent. 

The arrival of the vehicle at Tumling was a welcome relief to all the passengers because after a long and hazardous journey their body wanted rest. But for Sayani it was also a relief from that inexplicable fear. It was somewhere but Sayani was unable to locate where it was or tell something about its exact nature. 

In Tumling they were offered hot coffee and chops made from potato and onion. Everyone ate with relish. By that time other vehicles of the group had arrived safely. Most of them were talking about the perilous condition of the road. Sayani was very sociable in nature and she quickly made friends with some other members of the group. 

The establishment in which they would spend the night could hardly be called a hotel. It is called homestay where the inhabitants of the house offer the tourists shelter and food in exchange of money.  

The establishment was run by a young woman. She was around thirty years of age. She was a widow.  The woman had two daughters aged two and five. 

The party was scheduled to start after breakfast for Sandakphu. They were to stay there for a night and in the morning they were to go to Phalut and from there to Lapchajagat to spend the night and finally to Siliguri on the next day where the tour was going to end. 

The proprietess of the establishment was very friendly to the guest. She had smiling face and always ready to serve the guests without any grudge. She and Sayani had developed a sort of friendship. She said to Sayani, “The best time to visit this place is between March and April. At that time you can see the Rhododendron blooming. People from all over the world come here to see its beauty.” Sayani decided to visit there during the spring some time in future. 

When the party was about to take its departure an incident happened. The elder daughter of the lady cut herself with a knife. Blood was coming out from the wound profusely. She was crying and the woman was helpless because she could do nothing to stop the blood and bandage the wound. Arnab and Sayani had a box of first aid with them. They stopped the blood and bandaged the wound. The lady showered thanks upon them and they started towards Sandakphu. 

Fifteen Years Later

Fifteen years passed. Arnab and Sayani were on their way to Sandakphu again. It was the second week of April. Now the couple were going there to enjoy the beauty of Rhododendron flowers. This time they were accompanied by their daughter Rimjhim. She heard a lot about Sandakphu from her parents. For a very long time they had been planning to go to Sandakphu in April to see the rhododendrons but are unable do so. Sayani taught in a government school and during March and April she remained busy with the answer scripts of Madhyamik and Higher Seconadary Examination. But this year due to the Covid pandemic situation those examinations were postponed by Government and so Sayani was free during March and April. So they decided to visit Sandakphu again. 

Arnab and Sayani originally intended to stay one night at Tumling and one night at Sandakphu but due to non-availability of rooms at Sandakphu decided to spend both the nights at Tumling. This time they arranged their tour with an agency that provided them a vehicle and booked rooms at Tumling. 

They started their journey from Bijanbari in the morning. Sayani felt very excited at the prospect of seeing the rhododendrons in full bloom. Fifteen years ago when they had come to Tumling land rovers were the only vehicle plying between Manebhanjan and Sandakphu but in the recent years the Government had also allowed the Boleros to operate. Landrovers were hardy vehicles but not at all comfortable for the passengers, but Bolero provided both toughness and comfort. The driver’s name was Sonu. He was a man of thirty two or three and very energetic. Rimjhim asked Sonu, “ Uncle can we see the rhododendrons now on our way?’ 

Sonu shook his head and said, “But I have not heard of any such flowers. “ 

Both Arnab and Sayani were surprised. They said, “But somebody told us that we should visit the place in March or April to see the rhododendrons. “

Sonu again said that he had not heard about any flower called rhododendron. Rimjhim was very disappointed, so were her parents. Suddenly Rimjhim became very excited and pointing towards the left side of the road she said, “Look at these flowers. They are so beautiful.” Then she asked Sonu, “Uncle, can you tell me the name of these flowers?”Sonu kept his eyes on the steering and answered, “These are Laliguras.” 

Rimjhim said, “How can you tell this?” You kept your eyes on the steering. You did not even look at the flowers.”

Sonu smiled and said with confidence, “I have been driving vehicles in this route for the last twelve years. So I can answer without even looking at the flowers.” 

Both Arnab and Sayani felt that in the fifteen years intervening between their two visits Tumling had changed a lot. Some moderately furnished establishments for boarding and food had cropped up during this period.   

They had reserved one three bedded room for them. The name of the lodge was Everest Lodge that was run by two sisters who were very young aged around eighteen and twenty. 

Right from their arrival at Tumling both Sayani and Arnab were trying hard to locate the place where they had stayed during their previous visit at Tumling. But the place had become congested during these intervening years and had become very difficult to locate them again. The lodge had a dining room also but there was no waiter. Food items were kept in a bowl. The elder sister whose name was Sima was filling the plates of the guests. They were taking them to their seats and after finishing their meals they were keeping the dish and other used utensils in a particular place.

 
At the time of dinner Sayani was standing in the queue to get her plate filled with rice and Sima was serving. Suddenly she noticed that there was a cut mark on her right hand. Sayani asked, “There is a big cut mark on your hand.” 

“I had cut myself when I was five years old. A kind hearted lady who was in a tourist party bandaged my wound” and then she suddenly glanced at her face. She said, “Though I was only five years old at that time I somehow think that you are the one who had bandaged my wound with great care.” Then with a smiling face she added, “Please don’t take it seriously. It was only a joke.”  

Sayani stared at her eyes and said,” No, it was not a joke.  My husband and I bandaged your wound on that day. There was a sparkle in Sima’s eyes. It was the sparkle of recognition.  Sayani asked,:” Where is your mother?” 

Sima said with a great pain in her voice, “She died last year.”
Sayani said, “This time we came here with our daughter to see the rhododendron as suggested by your mother. But we could not find any rhododendron only Laliguras. 

Sima smiled softly and said, “Laliguras is the Nepalese name for rhododendrons.” 

 Sayani suddenly remembered that the name of the room they were staying in was also Laliguras.